The buzz of a new e-mail interrupted my drive to LAX. Hopefully something interesting. A fellow foodie would be in Florida in three weeks for the holidays and wanted to catch up.
I notified a few mutual friends and we met at my parents’ home for dinner shortly after Christmas. What would have been a party of seven in years past was a party of 14. Amidst the squeals and laughter of the playful second generation, our guest of honor described her first five months into a two-year diplomatic tour to Argentina. While enjoying her stories, we munched on our Porteña’s gift of a South American staple, alfajores.
Visiting the diplomat in country nine months later, I stocked up on alfajores. When the customs agent in Atlanta asked me upon my return what alfajores were, I said they were yummy goodies. Apparently, that answer wasn’t good enough for the humorless officer. Had I done research beforehand I would have described them as the South American Oreo™ consisting of two crumbly cornstarch-based cookies sandwiching a layer of dulce de leche, coated either with chocolate or an egg white/powdered sugar crust.
My stash lasted only a few weeks and I searched in vain for replenishment. The brands I brought home were either unavailable or offered online at an outrageous price. I decided to make my own.
Reviewing the ingredients list, all of them were readily available except for one. However, a stop at the local Hispanic grocery store with dulce de leche on the shelf saved me two hours of boiling a can of sweetened condensed milk.
After creaming butter and sugar, I added egg yolks, brandy, and vanilla extract to the mixer, followed by cornstarch, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Dropped with a dull thud on plastic wrap, I formed the dough into a disk, wrapped it tightly, and refrigerated for about an hour. Rolling and punching the dough, I put two-inch rounds onto a baking sheet, and then into a 350oF oven. Meanwhile, I created a makeshift double boiler to melt chocolate. Since I used chocolate couverture, I didn’t need to add shortening.
Thirteen minutes in the oven produced lightly browned cookies. I assembled sandwiches with the dulce de leche center, and then coated half in chocolate. The other half I coated with icing made with powdered sugar, egg whites, and lemon juice.
My first bite revealed that the homemade version wasn’t as dense as the store bought, but they’re just as good. How good? I sent a box of the “yummy goodies” to the diplomat, and the Buenos Aires locals voted a unanimous “fantastic.”
Michael Gabertan discovered eating a few hours after discovering breathing and has been on a culinary journey ever since. The college summer he experienced lobster bisque, cherries jubilee, and white linen tablecloth introduced dining excellence to his voyage.
Business travel permitted Michael to visit fine restaurants around the country. Personal travel introduced him to foreign interpretations of dining excellence. He was not always looking for amuse-bouches and petit fours, but a place that exhibited a passion for food prepared and served well. Whether it was a Michelin 3-star restaurant or a food truck, Michael looked for enthusiasm bordering on obsession for places to visit.
Michael has no training in food preparation or service. However, to deepen his appreciation of the effort to produce and serve a fine dish, he attempts to cook at home. Sometimes he is successful. Other times he goes to In-N-Out®.
