Philippe The Original is a throwback to restaurants of a different era. The restaurant founded by a French immigrant in 1908 resides at its current location near Union Station since 1951. Sawdust-covered floors greet patrons upon entry and its bank of telephone booths makes it the last place in Los Angeles for Clark Kent to change into Superman. Alas, modern times slowly creep in with the restaurant raising coffee prices to 45¢ from 10¢ a few years ago and retiring its cash-only sign last year.
I’m here to taste their famous sandwich. The descriptor in their title refers to the restaurant’s claim of creating the first French dip sandwich in 1918. Traditionally the sandwich consists of thinly sliced roast beef placed on a split French roll dipped in pan drippings.
Without defined lines I ask a regular patron where to order. He directs me to the 50-foot, unmarked counter. It reminds me of ordering at The Varsity in Atlanta in the 1980s, where you work your way past the crowd to the counter and announce your order to the cashier when she asks, “What’ll you have?” to no one in particular. Had I not gone on a holiday Monday at an off-peak hour, the slow ordering process would have been substantially longer.
Ordering at the counter
A few minutes pass as I watch Rosa serving patrons with trays of breakfast and sandwich items before she takes my order. While I may select my sandwich with roast beef as it was originally made, I also have the choice of other meats including pork, lamb, ham, and turkey. I opt for my favorite deli meat, New York pastrami. A 75¢ lemonade completes my order.
While waiting for Rosa to put my sandwich together, I observe the shop’s clientele. A couple with suitcases and cameras diligently study a local map for the day’s sightseeing. Three men with foreign-language periodicals discuss current events. Parents with young children toss back the remnants of a second cup of coffee.
A few minutes later I take my tray to one of the community tables and grab a stool. I want my first taste to be au natural, so I skip adding their famous spicy mustard. I’m hoping this isn’t where hype and tradition supplant great dining. I am not disappointed. The lightly crusted soft roll holds enough jus to provide full flavor without being soggy. The New York purveyors seasoned their pastrami well with the right amount of fat. This sandwich defines Philippe’s existence. It’s paradise on a French roll.
New York Pastrami French Dip
Sawdust-covered floor
The last place in Los Angeles where Clark Kent can change into Superman
Phillipe The Original
1001 Alameda St
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 628-3781
www.philippes.com
Michael Gabertan discovered eating a few hours after discovering breathing and has been on a culinary journey ever since. The college summer he experienced lobster bisque, cherries jubilee, and white linen tablecloth introduced dining excellence to his voyage.
Business travel permitted Michael to visit fine restaurants around the country. Personal travel introduced him to foreign interpretations of dining excellence. He was not always looking for amuse-bouches and petit fours, but a place that exhibited a passion for food prepared and served well. Whether it was a Michelin 3-star restaurant or a food truck, Michael looked for enthusiasm bordering on obsession for places to visit.
Michael has no training in food preparation or service. However, to deepen his appreciation of the effort to produce and serve a fine dish, he attempts to cook at home. Sometimes he is successful. Other times he goes to In-N-Out®.
